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Rose Bush Planting
Bare
root rose planting |
Container
Rose Planting
Are we going to plant your roses? Click to see |
Shortly after arrival unpack your roses and soak them in a bucket of water for 12 to 24 hours. Add 1 oz of Structure to the water for every gallon of water in the bucket. Save this water if possible and us it to drench the plants once planted. The use of Structure is crucial in the development of a strong vigorous root system and the establishment of your plant. This will lead to earlier blooming, which the reason we all love to have roses in our garden.
Boxed Roses Roses are sometimes
shipped in cardboard boxes labeled "plant
them box and all." Do not do this.
Experience shows that this practice often discourages
quick rooting and establishment of the plant. There are two options for boxed
roses. If the rose is planted in the spring and is still dormant, simply take it
out of the box and treat it like a bare-root rose. If the plant has broken
dormancy and is growing, cut the bottom off the box and set the rose in the hole
at the proper depth. Then, cut through the sides of the box and carefully peel
the box away. Refill the hole with soil and water.
Before planting, soak the whole bare-root rose in a bucket
or tub of water for 24 hours to help rehydrate the roots. If the canes are
dehydrated. After soaking, trim off any damaged or diseased roots. Botrytis, a
gray mold, is a common disease found on the roots and canes of plants held in
storage. In addition to pruning the roots, they may also be soaked in water to
which the fungicide Rootshield,
or Resist II have been added.
Try to maintain 3-5
canes per plant, and each cane should be pruned back to 3-5 buds per cane. Any
cane thinner than a pencil should be removed. Buds are easy to spot as raised
oval areas on the cane. Roots may need additional pruning to remove damaged
portions or to fit the planting hole.
Planting holes should be dug wide enough and deep enough to comfortably accept the roots of the plant. Make a cone-shaped mound of soil in the center of the hole to support the plant, with the bud union at soil level. Fill the hole about 2/3 full of soil and add water, making a slurry of soil that gets between the roots. Do not tamp the soil, as this compacts it and destroys soil structure. After the water has drained down, add more soil and repeat the water fill process until the original soil level has been reached. Since the soil is loose, the plant will sink a little after planting, the bud union will end up 1-2 inches below soil level. This is where the bud union should be for roses growing in northern climates because this helps to provide some winter protection for the bud union.

The canes of dormant, newly planted bare-root roses need to be protected from drying winds and handled to encourage maximum bud break. To accomplish this, a temporary soil mound is placed over the canes to a depth of about 8-10 inches. This process is called "sweating" and is done to keep the canes moist to encourage maximum bud break. The soil is left in place for about 2-3 weeks or until new growth starts. When new growth does start, gently wash away the soil with a hose so as not to disturb the new growth. Other methods that works well are to wrap the canes in burlap that is kept moist or to mound the canes in sphagnum moss. Some rose growers use brown paper grocery bags to sweat their roses.
Alternate method "sweat" roses using
brown paper bag
Place the bag upside down over the plant. Cut two slits in the top and anchor the bottom with soil. After growth starts, the bag can be removed slowly, first by increasing the size of the slits and then taking the bag off all together. Sweating is only done with newly planted bare-root roses. It is not done each spring. Don't use plastic bags for sweating. Heat buildup can cause injury or even death of the rose plant.

Plant a potted rose